25-Foot Cabin Cruiser Part VI
Now start at the opposite end and fit in at the stem an oak breast hook or knee, fasten to the clamps, sheer strake and stem. The plans show seventeen beams for the raised deck; these should be of oak, sided 1 1/4 inches, moulded 1 3/4 inches. They can be either cut with a crown of 5 inches in 7 feet or steam bent to that shape. The lower corners can be chamfered or rounded, and the beams finished smooth. The next thing is to make a strong' back to set these beams on, and for this you can take a piece of board about 7/8 inch thick and about 8 to 12 inches wide; set this so that the upper edge is the height of the underside of the beams, fasten both ends securely and proceed to cut the ends of the beams into the clamp, fasten to same and to the heads of frames. Cut out the covering boards, which are to be 7/8 inch thick and 3 inches wide, spring around the edge of the sheer and fasten to the beams and sheer strake. Mark a centre line on the beams and proceed to lay the plank, which is to be of cypress 7/8 inch thick, 3 inches wide. Fasten them from above into the beams and also toenail, as this will tend to draw the planks tight and make them close on the underside. Plane the upper side smooth and then fit in the grub beam, which is to be of oak 2x6 inches, the upper edge of which is to be rabbeted to receive the staving at the after end of the house. This beam should be fastened very securely, as it will prevent the hull from spreading. The beams for the cockpit deck can be gotten out; these are to be of oak, sided 1 1/2 inches, moulded 1 3/4 inches, spaced 18 inches or fastened to each alternate frame. It is a good plan to nail a strip of yellow pine or oak about 1x2 inches to the frames at such a height that the ends of the beams will rest on same, and the beams should be fastened to this strip as well as to the frames. Set stanchions under the centres of the beams to make them more rigid and to help support the cockpit deck. Lay the cockpit deck plank in strips of pine the same width and thickness as for the deck at the after end of the boat. If you intend to finish this deck in natural wood varnished, .you will have to calk the seams and fill them with white lead putty or marine glue, if you prefer that material. Provided you intend covering the cockpit deck with canvas, the plank can be of either pine or cypress; tongued and grooved stock is better for this purpose than the square edged material if it is not to be calked. When you have finished laying the deck you can proceed to cut out the rabbeted pieces of oak. The curve of the staving is so slight that this strip can be worked out of straight stock and sprung to shape. Twenty feet in length will make enough for the two sides and across the front of the seat. Take your spirit level and set it against the inside of the clamp, ascertain that it is plumb, then make a mark on the cockpit deck plank; continue doing this at intervals on both sides until you have a sufficient number of points to strike a line through with a batten and make a curve that corresponds exactly to the inside of the clamp. The line thus marked shows the outside of the staving, and as the pieces of oak you have rabbeted to receive the planking are 2 inches wide, you will have to set the outside of this piece of oak 1 1/8 inches closer to the frames, as the staving is 7/8 inch thick, and you want to set the staving perpendicular. If the deck is covered with canvas, simply lay the oak pieces in thick white lead and fasten closely to make it watertight, but if you intend to have the deck bright, it would be advisable to set the oak pieces on a strip of calking cotton as well as using white lead. When you have set these oak pieces you can proceed to set up the cockpit staving. which is to be of cypress 7/8 inch thick, 2 inches wide, tongued and grooved, and the edges bevelled on the inside or face. Cut the lower ends so that they fit the oak pieces, set in white lead and fasten to same, and also fasten to the clamp. Leave the upper ends of these pieces of staying longer than you really require, as you can cut them off to a fair line when you have finished the staving. The staving at the after end of the cabin being of the same material can also be set in position. The lower ends are to set into a rabbet on the grub beam, and the upper ends are to be fitted to the underside of the raised deck plank, where it projects over the beam, and are to be fastened to the raised deck beam. A filler piece of spruce of some such material I inch thick and 2 3/8 inches wide can be fitted in between the upper edge of the staving and the inside of the planking. The top of same is to be the same height as the underside of the cap, and when you have fastened in these pieces securely you can proceed to get out the cap. The specifications call for the cap to be of oak 1 1/8 inches thick, 5 inches wide; this will allow for 1/2 an inch overlap on the outside of the planking and also the same amount on the staving. Round these edges and proceed to fasten in position. You will most probably find that you cannot bend this piece of oak to the proper shape without steaming it, and therefore it would be advisable to steam it in the first place. Put in plenty of fastenings, the filler piece and the edges of the planking affording good places to fasten to. The heads of the fastenings should be counter sunk and covered with wood plugs, as should all the heads of the large fastenings in any part that is to be finished bright.
Proposed Cabin Plan For The Nock 25 Ft. Cabin Cruiser
The coaming for the cockpit hatch over the engine is to be of oak; work this out to shape as per plans, allowing for a waterway between the forward end and the grub beam, and fasten to the deck and beams. Rabbet a piece of oak 1 1/2 x 2 inches to fit the upper edge of the coaming; this piece is -to be used for the frame of the hatch. Halve the corners together and proceed to cover with 7/8x2-inch white pine strips as you did with the cockpit deck; if you desire to finish bright, calk and fill the seams and put a small oak ribbon around the outside to form a finish and cover the wood ends. If covered with canvas this ribbon should cover the fastenings.
The seat at the after end of the cockpit is not completed, and you can finish same before proceeding with the cabin. The specifications call for the top of this seat and the lazy back to be of mahogany, but it is simply a matter of choice what you use; mahogany stands the weather and warps but little, but I have seen some very fine looking seats and backboards made of cypress. Allow for part of the top of this seat to open, as there is valuable space under it that can be used for storage and you might have to get under the after deck at some time or another to renew the tiller rope, etc. Set in the lead scuppers at the after corners of the cockpit, and it is practically completed. These scuppers should be about 1 1/4 inches inside diameter; the flange on the upper side should be set flush with the deck and the lower end of scuppers flush with planking. It will be necessary to cut a rabbet in plank to receive the flange. The fastenings in the lead scuppers should be of copper.
The tow post and forward bitts can be gotten out and fitted. These are to be of oak or locust 4x4 inches and 12 inches long. The part that fits the deck is to be trimmed to3 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches; a hole is to be cut through same, and they are to be driven in position and secured on the under side with two oak or locust wedges. The tow post can be set up, but the forward bitt cannot be fastened in until you have covered the raised deck with canvas, which you can now proceed to do: The canvas should be 10-ounce material, 8 feet in width and 14 feet long. This must be well stretched and fastened closely around the edges with copper tacks. The usual method of laying a canvas deck of this description is to cover the upper side of the plank with a thick paint, stretch and fasten the canvas, and then dampen the canvas with a sponge and apply a coat of paint. The claim is that the moisture tightens the canvas and the coat of paint prevents it from relaxing. Owing to the diversity of opinions upon this subject, I am going to state that I either set the canvas in thick white lead paint and when stretched apply a good coat of oil paint, using no water, or else I cover the plank with Jeffrey's marine glue, and when the canvas has been stretched it is made to adhere to same by being ironed with hot flat irons. Men who are well versed in the handling of canvas or duck tell me that the oil (linseed) destroys the cotton, and they ought to know. The edges of the canvas, where fastened, should be covered with a 1 ¼-inch half-round moulding. Now that you have the deck finished you can remove the piece of wood you used for the strong back and proceed with the interior.
Set the beams for the floor and lay the planking. There should be three strips thr6ugh the centre of the floor which will not be fastened to the beams but cut up in suitable lengths and cleared together on the underside. These you can remove at any time to lean out the bilge. The blocks for the lights are to be of cypress, 1 1/4 inches in thickness; the sizes vary from 10 1/2 to 12 inches square, according to the diameter of the glasses. The diameter of glass in the clear is 8 inches for the two after lights on either side and 7 inches for the forward ones, if you intend using fixed lights. If you have decided to use composition open ports they should be smaller; purchase those with the round frames, as they do not have to be cut into the planking, and present a much better appearance than the hexagonal frame light. If you can obtain the use of a lathe or get the blocks turned, you will save considerable work, and while they are in the lathe you can cut a rabbet 3/8 inch deep on the face to receive the ceiling. Mark on the outside of the plank the position of the different lights and saw out the circle, then fit the blocks from the inside, cut to the shape of the planking and use plenty of screws or nails to secure them to the planking.
Another Cabin Arrangement for the Nock 25 Foot Cabin Cruiser
The specifications call for the ceiling to be of cypress 3/8x2 inches, tongueed and grooved, edges bevelled. Start the first strip close to the underside of the raised deck clamp, fit around the rabbet in the blocks and fasten to same and to the frames. After you have fitted four strakes you will find that the next strake will have to be cut at the forward end for a certain distance, as it will bear against the upper side of the clamp, and the next two strips will be shorter in length for the same reason. If you fit them carefully you will find that it looks well. The proper way to ceil this space would be to take a spilling and shape each piece so that there would be the same number of pieces at one end as at the other, but so that they would decrease in width as they neared the stem. There would be little or no advantage in ceiling a boat of this description in such a manner unless you were particular, but that is the proper way to put in a ceiling. Work in the ceiling from the underside of the clamp to the upper edge of the bilge clamp and, with the exception of the toilet room, it will cover the inside of the frames. If you want to make the interior look well you can ceil from the underside of the bilge clamp in the toilet room to the floor.
The companionway slide, runs, door frame, etc., can now be gotten out. They do not need any explanation, as the plans show the section of the hatch, etc. The specifications call for them to be of mahogany, but if you prefer some other material, well and good — use it; but don't use any wood that is apt to warp out of shape when exposed to the elements or you will have a leaky companionway slide. The doors, to look well, should be panelled and made of 1 1/8-inch stock with panels at least 1/2 of an inch thick. The rubstreaks can be of oak or teak, 2 inches wide. If shaped as shown, it presents a better appearance than if it were half round. Fasten well through the planking into the frames and take care to have a fair curve, as the appearance of such a boat can easily bespoiled when the rubstreaks are set in position if they are not in a nice, fair line, and there is really no excuse for them being otherwise, as you have your sheer line to work to.
When you have arrived at this point you have practically completed the hull. Fit a piece of 3/4 inch half-round brass to the stem, to protect it and bore for the rudder port if you have not already done so. For the rudder port you will need a piece of 1 inch brass steam pipe 18 inches in length. Have a locknut thread cut in the lower end 5 inches in length, at the upper end you will require a thread 2 inches in length. For the stuffing-box you can purchase a standard 1-inch brass cap and also a small locknut of the same size. Bore the cap to the size of the rudder stock arid it will make a good stuffing-box for such a rudder. I don't wish to convey the impression that a stuffing-box made in this manner is as good as having a proper one made, but it is something that can be purchased most anywhere, and therefore would appeal to the amateur. The port should be carefully threaded into the knee and horn timber, and if you cover the thread with white lead and have it fit tight into the wood it will not leak. Fig. 6 shows the dimensions of the rudder, and a simple way to make this is to buy a piece of hard rolled Tobin bronze 1/8 inch thick and cut it to the required shape. For the stock you will need a piece of Tobin bronze 1 inch diameter, 3 feet 8 inches in length. Have a machinist mill a slot in this stock to receive the blade; square the head above the stuffing-box to receive the quadrant and turn the lower end down to 3/4, inch diameter for a distance of 1 1/4 inches to form a pintle for the shoe to hold the lower end of rudder stock. You can either have the machinist rivet the blade in place or do this work yourself, as it is not difficult. A rudder made in this manner is well suited for so small a craft. The shoe you can bend up out of a piece of brass or bronze, but it is better to make a pattern and have this cast. The quadrant is a standard article with A. radius of 12 inches and can be purchased from any well-known dealer in boat hardware. For the steering wheel you can use either a drum steerer or one of the auto steerers if you prefer to haмe a horizontal wheel; in either case you will need a tiller rope about 1/4 inch diameter, and this can be led either between the staving in the cockpit and the frames or else under the beams of the cockpit deck. Wherever this wire rope, if you use wire, makes a sharp turn, it should run over a wheel with a diameter of not less than 2 1/2 inches. The interior can now be finished, and as I have shown two cabin plans, you can please yourself which you use, or perhaps you may have an idea of a cabin arrangement which would meet your requirements much better. Under any circumstances it is not worth while my explaining how to set up staving, bulkheads, seats, etc., for if you have finished your boat up to this point you will find that such work as this is of no trouble whatever. If you require any great amount of panel work, it would be cheaper to have this made where they have machinery, but I have purposely made the interior plain, thereby making it easier to construct. A word about the engine: if you intend to install it, take just as much care in making up the joints on the piping, etc., as you would in making the joints in the hull. for it is of the utmost importance, and no matter how long it takes, if done properly, you will feel well repaid for your trouble. Use a seamless, drawn bronze or copper pipe for the gasoline supply, as this material does not deteriorate like brass pipe or crystallize like block tin pipe. The proper methods of installing engines have been thoroughly explained in MOTOR BOAT before in detail, therefore it would be useless for me to go into the matter. The gasoline tanks figured for this boat are cylindrical in form, 10 inches diameter and 48 inches in length. They are to be situated under the cockpit deck, well out on either side of the engine. A small water tank can be fitted under the after end of the berths in the cabin if desired, and a pump could be set up at the sink to supply the water for cooking and washing, and, if one required it, a small folding lavatory could be fitted in the toilet room.
The specifications mention the principal fittings, all of which can be purchased from any reliable dealer in boat hardware. The finishing of the boat is quite important, the top sides and under body should be planed smooth and fair, then sandpapered and primed. Before the second coat is applied the first coat should be well rubbed down with fine sandpaper, and the same treatment to be applied every time before you apply a coat of paint. The under body should be treated in a similar manner, only in this case you should apply either copper or some anti-fouling paint. The designed water line, or the line shown on the plans as the L. W. L. is supposed to represent the line of the water when the boat is afloat, and it is a good plan to mark a waterline on a boat of this size 1 1/2 to 2 inches above this line and paint up to this point with the same paint you use for the bottom, as it keeps the sides clean and adds to the appearance of the boat. This line should be marked on while the boat is in the stocks and scribed in with an awl, as it makes it easier to cut to such a line when painting.
All the bright work, such as rubstreaks, cockpit staving, companionway, etc., should be treated to one coat of filler, rubbed down and then have three coats of spar composition applied, each coat being rubbed down before the next is laid on. The canvas should receive one coat of canvas filler and two coats of deck paint. The interior bright work should have" one coat of filler and two coats of a first-class interior varnish.
When you have completed the boat she can be removed from the stocks and launched, and there is no heed for any explanation how to proceed to launch this craft. Without doubt there are many minor things I have not mentioned that will have to be done, but I have gone into the matter in such a manner as I believe will make it plain to those who think of building a boat of this sort and have some fair knowledge of the use of tools.
Luxury motor yachts: motoryacht charter and sailboats in yachtworld: